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Título: EFFECTS OF DIFFERENT ACIDS ON COLLOIDAL STRUCTURES FORMED BY THE PSEUDO-CATIONIC SURFACTANT STEARAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYLAMINE
Autor: GABRIELA OLIVA FONSECA
Instituição: PONTIFÍCIA UNIVERSIDADE CATÓLICA DO RIO DE JANEIRO - PUC-RIO
Colaborador(es):  ANA MARIA PERCEBOM SETTE DA SILVA - ADVISOR
HEITOR FERNANDO NUNES DE OLIVEIRA - CO-ADVISOR

Nº do Conteudo: 51531
Catalogação:  22/02/2021 Idioma(s):  PORTUGUESE - BRAZIL
Tipo:  TEXT Subtipo:  THESIS
Natureza:  SCHOLARLY PUBLICATION
Nota:  Todos os dados constantes dos documentos são de inteira responsabilidade de seus autores. Os dados utilizados nas descrições dos documentos estão em conformidade com os sistemas da administração da PUC-Rio.
Referência [pt]:  https://www.maxwell.vrac.puc-rio.br/colecao.php?strSecao=resultado&nrSeq=51531@1
Referência [en]:  https://www.maxwell.vrac.puc-rio.br/colecao.php?strSecao=resultado&nrSeq=51531@2
Referência DOI:  https://doi.org/10.17771/PUCRio.acad.51531

Resumo:
Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA) is a surfactant and it has been widely used in the cosmetics industries, particularly in hair conditioners and masks. Because of its pseudo-cationic nature, this alkyl amidoamine neutralizes the negative charges of hair strands, decreasing frizz, providing greater softness and combing force reduction. Besides that, alkyl amidoamines are excellent substitutes for traditional cationic surfactants, because they present less toxicity and improved biodegradability. However, SAPDMA is insoluble in water, as it behaves as a non-ionic molecule. At low pH values, SAPDMA becomes positively charged and, consequently, soluble in water. Currently, it is known that different acids can induce different colloid structures in formulations containing SAPDMA, which have particular physico-chemical properties. From the best of our knowledge, this phenomenon it not completely understood yet. This study intends to understand how 8 different acids can impact on colloidal structures formed by SAPDMA. In addition, we also aim to understand how fatty alcohols change the final properties of these different systems. The techniques employed to characterize all systems were conventional and polarized optical microscopy, dynamic light scattering (DLS), small angle X ray scattering (SAXS) and rheology. The results revealed that the chosen acids impact differently on the colloidal structures and that the observed differences are not limited only to pH variations, but also to different interactions between SAPDMA and the anions involved, the respective conjugated bases. The systems tendency is to form lamellar liquid-crystalline phase, but depending on the chosen acid, bilayers may have different morphologies, with changes in its curvature. So, the acid choice can impact on the formation, or not, of vesicles, besides it has a huge role in systems stability as well as the sensorial properties of the products, which are key to address the consumer needs that we aim to comply with. On one hand, bilayers can provide increased viscosity that is a property of enormous importance for application in cosmetics. On the other hand, malleable bilayers can easily close and form vesicles, which are better choice for emulsion systems, since they can easier stabilize dispersed oil droplets. This study shows the importance of better understanding systems containing SAPDMA and the impact that different acids have on them. Hence, better formulations could be developed by cosmetic industries, which already use this pseudo-cationic surfactant in several products consumed by society. Accordingly to our direct collaborator Dr. Heitor de Oliveira (Coty Inc., Darmstadt/Germany), this study was essential for the R(and)D group which he manages in order to optimize and generate cost reduction in a group of conditioner formulas considered as best seller within the brands Clairol NNE as well as Wella Koleston, both from Coty Inc.. The respective formulas are already in the final teste phase for production.

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