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Título: INFLUENCE OF THE COMPOSITION OF THE OIL PHASE ON THE PHYSICOCHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF COSMETIC EMULSIONS WITH AND WITHOUT ORGANIC FILTERS
Autor: DANIELLE BORHER DE ANDRADE
Instituição: PONTIFÍCIA UNIVERSIDADE CATÓLICA DO RIO DE JANEIRO - PUC-RIO
Colaborador(es):  ANA MARIA PERCEBOM SETTE DA SILVA - ADVISOR
Nº do Conteudo: 61081
Catalogação:  04/11/2022 Liberação: 04/11/2022 Idioma(s):  PORTUGUESE - BRAZIL
Tipo:  TEXT Subtipo:  THESIS
Natureza:  SCHOLARLY PUBLICATION
Nota:  Todos os dados constantes dos documentos são de inteira responsabilidade de seus autores. Os dados utilizados nas descrições dos documentos estão em conformidade com os sistemas da administração da PUC-Rio.
Referência [pt]:  https://www.maxwell.vrac.puc-rio.br/colecao.php?strSecao=resultado&nrSeq=61081&idi=1
Referência [en]:  https://www.maxwell.vrac.puc-rio.br/colecao.php?strSecao=resultado&nrSeq=61081&idi=2
Referência DOI:  https://doi.org/10.17771/PUCRio.acad.61081

Resumo:
The Sun is essential for life on Earth and brings many benefits to the human beings, but its incidence in excess can cause some disorders and diseases. Solar radiation affects the skin, causing an increased risk of skin cancer, photoaging and exacerbation of photosensitive dermatoses. To prevent these pathologies, one of the options is the use of sunscreens, which are usually emulsions for topical use containing UV filters. They represent an important part of the cosmetics market and have shown to be a commercially promising segment, in addition to being a relevant niche within cosmetic science for research and technological development. The formulation of sunscreen emulsions is complex and may involve several ingredients such as organic filters, inorganic filters, emollients, emulsifiers, humectants, water and even preservatives, fragrances, treatment actives, anti-oxidants or dyes, each one being added or in the aqueous phase or in the oil phase, depending on its polarity. Among the substances comprising the oily phase of this type of emulsion, emollients and organic filters can be highlighted. Different classes of emollients result in changes of physicochemical and sensorial properties of cosmetics, which are very relevant for a good application. The objective of this project is to study the influence of different compositions of the oil phase, modifying the emollients used in the emulsions and comparing samples with and without organic filters, correlating the characteristics of the emollients with the experimental results of emulsion characterization. This information will allow developing strategies for greater assertiveness in the choice of emollients to be used in sunscreen emulsions and to control the properties of the product according to consumer needs and marketing demands of cosmetic companies. The methodology consists of preparing two versions of sets of formulas, fixing the type and concentration of emulsifier and co-emulsifier, the concentration of the oil phase and the method of preparation. The first version is a set of 7 samples, in which the composition of the oil phase is modified by changing the emollient used. The second version is another set of 7 samples, but with the addition of a mixture of 3 organic filters commonly used in sunscreens. After preparing the samples, stability tests and characterization of the physicochemical properties are performed through visual analysis, centrifugation, rheology, microscopy and laser diffraction. The characterization results indicate that changing the composition of the oil phase by using different emollients modifies the behavior of the emulsion formed. Different droplet size distribution profiles were found in laser diffraction analyses, as well as differences in flow curves, viscosity and loss and storage modulus in rheological analyses. Preliminary stability also indicates that the emollient used depends on the time the emulsion remains stable. After the addition of the mixture of organic filters, more changes in the emulsion properties and trends of stability occur. Therefore, the study allows greater predictability and control of the properties of emulsion formulations with or without organic filters.

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